Blue Valentine: a wearable guide to the blue make-up trend

As we come to the end of January – not the most amiable, or the shortest of months – it's time to look towards happier climes and apply a little blue sky thinking in terms of your make-up. Blue is a colour that often intimidates. It may not have the attention-commanding power of a red, but between flashbacks to the 80s and teenage forays into garish palettes it’s not always first choice in the wake of more orthodox browns and bronzes. And yet this infinitely versatile shade can easily rival neutrals in the wearability stakes.

If the red carpet’s current love affair with blue isn’t enough to sway you, the runways – who championed the hue in all its guises from washes of ethereal powder blues, to painterly daubs of Matisse ultramarine – could change your mind. Whether punky (think petrol blue wing) or pretty (a soft aquamarine is always comely), naive (we’re looking at you baby blue) or sophisticated (navy is eternally chic), there’s a shade for you. Blue Monday? How about making everyday a blue day.

Once reserved for queens, it turns out blue is actually the most democratic of shades (Cleopatra would be turning in her tomb). ‘Blue is a striking shade that enhances every eye colour,’ confirms make-up artist Jose Bass who explains that it has the ability to make brown eyes pop while brightening blue eyes. The warmth of brown eyes are brightened when dressed with a cool blue, while blue on blue can also be very flattering as it’s complementing rather than contrasting the colour of your eyes. Just make sure that the hue you choose is different enough from the colour of your irises so that they don’t get lost. 

We love Clarins’ Ombre Satin Shadow in 04 Blue for light blue eyes and Dior Diorshow Mono Eyeshadow in Air for dark blue eyes, Mac Eyeshadow Matte in Atlantic Blue for brown eyes and Sisley Les Phyto Ombre Eyeshadow in Silky French Blue for hazel eyes.

Blue mascara has had a bit of a bad rep in the past with many preferring to confine it to the annals of ‘80s looks we won’t be revisiting’, and yet this throwback trend is actually very wearable with modern, nuanced shades for broader appeal. To avoid any Krystle Carrington overtones Bass suggests keeping everything else ‘simple and minimal’. That means fresh, dewy skin, brushed up brows, a touch of lip balm and little else.

The most wearable take on the trend is an inky navy such as Sisley’s So Volume Mascara in Deep Blue or By Terry’s pretty, midnight blue Mascara Terrybly in Terrybleu, which is perfect for blue-eyed women who often find that black can appear too harsh. But for those looking for a showstopping statement try Urban Decay’s Double Team Special Effect Coloured Mascara in Gonzo. Or for a waterproof version (and stunning wedding look), Dior’s Diorshow Waterproof Mascara in Azure Blue will help you to dive into the trend whatever the weather.

According to Bass, the rules of blue make-up are simple; keep everything else neutral and contrast with fresh, dewy skin for the most modern finish. ‘The key is to make it look effortless rather than looking like you’ve spent hours blending and contouring,’ he says. ‘Fingers are the perfect tool for this look; pack on the blue eyeshadow in the centre of the lids layering a slightly different shade on top for maximum impact and then simply pat around the edges for a diffuse, organic finish.

A soft shimmer such as Dior’s Diorshow Mono Eyeshadow in Air tends to be best for daytime wear. Mattes such as Clinique’s All About Shadow Eyeshadow, in Lagoon lend a modern, cool girl finish which can be ramped up to dramatic levels depending on the colour (case in point Nars’s Single Eyeshadow in Outremer), while anything with sparkle such as Clarins’ Ombre Sparkle Eyeshadow in Sparkling Blue plays theatrics on your eyes and is ideal for evening wear.

Dip your toe into the trend by way of eyeliner. While big, bold, azure wings are pure, rapturous theatre, a sliver of teal in the waterline adds subtle interest and helps to brighten the whites of the eyes. Ready to jump in at the deep end? ‘Try applying a cobalt blue along the bottom lash line or as a thin line along the top lashline,’ says Bass. ‘Then, if you want to go more intense, simply build up the thickness of the line, drawing it upwards and outwards into a feline flick. 

For a subtle twist on traditional black try Hourglass 1.5mm Mechanical Gel Eye Liner in Ocean Floor. Or up the drama ante with Urban Decay’s 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil in Chaos. To dress up the waterline, Shiseido’s Kajal Ink Artist Eye Pencil in Sumi Sky enhances the eyes with a beautiful turquoise blue, and to brighten the inner corners of the eyes try Clinique’s Chubby Stick Shadow Tint For Eyes in Big Blue.