Eyeliner tutorial: how to become a rock ’n’ kohl star

Despite its reputation for being tricky, eyeliner needn’t be scary (unless you want it to be that is – Morticia Addams is a fiendishly good proponent of the feline flick).

By its very nature, eyeliner denotes a certain skill-set (namely the ability to draw a straight line) that those of us who have barely mastered a swipe of lipstick may doubt that we possess, not to mention the attitude needed to pull off. But not only can eyeliner actually be easy to apply, its many guises also make it a makeup staple that can be tailored to suit absolutely everyone, as demonstrated by the plethora of looks on the catwalks this season. From softly smoked to graphically geometric, there’s a look (and aptitude level) for everyone.

We caught up with makeup artist Dani Guinsberg for a comprehensive guide to getting it right whatever your age or skill-set. Sellotape (yes really), at the ready, it’s time to walk the line.

From khols to crayons, pens to pots, the dizzying array of eyeliner formats can be intimidating for the uninitiated. Which one is right for you comes down to personal preference in terms of the effect you’re after as well as how confident you are at committing pen, pencil or brush to skin. It’s also worth remembering that even the most disastrous daubs can be transformed into perfect masterpieces with a little help from a good eye makeup remover and a cotton bud.

So what are the pros and cons of each? ‘Liquid liners are great for creating crisp, ultra graphic look-at-me lines but they tend to be the most difficult to use as there is very little space for error thanks to their highly pigmented formulas and quick drying time,’ says Dani, who notes that a steady hand is helpful here.

‘Pencils are much easier to manipulate and smudge and therefore more suited to creating softly defined eyes or smokier looks,’ she observes. ‘They’re a good option for those new to eyeliner and can also be applied in the waterline for added intensity. Make sure your pencil is freshly sharpened for the most precise finish.’

Gels lie somewhere between the two in terms of application and longevity. ‘They can be used to create bold, graphic looks when paired with an angled brush or can be blended out for a classic smoky eye,’ says Dani.

Once you’ve decided on your chosen formula it’s time to start honing your technique. Your approach – be it full-throttle commitment to the line with touch-ups afterwards, or a piecemeal technique that involves joining the dots – is entirely up to you although Dani offers some helpful pointers to those still struggling to master the perfect stroke.

‘The best advice I can offer is to always look slightly ahead of where you want the liner to go and the hand will naturally follow,’ she says. ‘It’s a great idea to use your little finger as a support, placing it on your face as you apply your eyeliner as this should help to steady your hand, as will leaning your elbow on a flat surface to begin with. Remember that practice makes perfect and if all else fails you can always use a piece of sticky tape as a guide, angling it slightly upwards from the outer corners of your eyes and tracing your liner along the edge.’

Dani adds that since no one’s eyes are exactly the same, you should be tailoring your eyeliner shape to the eye you’re working on rather than trying to match it to the eye you’ve already done.

Eyeliner is not a one-look-fits-all affair so before throwing yourself into painstakingly recreating your eyeliner idol’s refined flicks, it’s worth really getting to know your face and what suits you best.

‘If you have eyes that naturally turn down at the ends it’s a good idea to create lift by angling your flick upwards and ensuring that the ends are kept slightly thicker,’ says Dani. ‘For almond eye shapes little lift is needed unless you are going for some serious drama when you may want to exaggerate your flick for a feline effect.’

Dani suggests that those with small eyes try to keep the line as thin as they can so as not to close them up even more, while those who have a-lot of eyelid might opt for a nice thick line that can even be smudged a little in order to make the eyes themselves appear bigger. ‘For those with close-set eyes, don’t take the liner all the way to the inner corners,‘ she says. ‘On the flip-side, if you have wide-set eyes be sure to run the liner all the way along the lashline to create balance.’

Whether you’re channeling screen siren glamour or sci-fi chic will determine how you apply your eyeliner.

For futuristic flicks Dani suggests opting for a liquid liner. ‘Starting at the inner corners of the eyes, carefully glide the brush or pen tip along the lashline, keeping some fine cotton buds to hand to clean up any mistakes,‘ she says. ‘Once you get to the outer corners of the eyes look up into the mirror and decide on the angle you would like your flick to take – straighter tends to lend a more contemporary feel. Make a point half a centimeter or so beyond the outer corners and work inwards to meet the lashes for a crisp, graphic flick.’

Classic, retro wings take a little more skill to create according to Dani.  ‘Look directly into a mirror and work out where your lower lashes are angled at the edge of the eye – this gives a great natural guide to what angle will suit you,’ she advises. ‘Try to follow that natural line upwards and outwards on the upper outer corner of the eye – it sometimes helps to start from the point where you want the flick to end and work inwards towards the lashes.’