Olivia Adams, Senior Editor
The globally renowned German doctor, aesthetics expert and anti-inflammatory pioneer on the importance of hydration for healthy skin and her unique, science-driven approach to creating anti-ageing products.
There’s no doubt about it: Dr. Barbara Sturm looks great. We meet with the 53-year-old orthopedic doctor-turned-founder – whose skincare brand Dr. Barbara Sturm recently launched in John Lewis – to talk about her pioneering approach to anti-ageing skincare, as well as how she recommends changing our skincare routine in winter.
Dr. Sturm’s products are driven by science to reduce inflammation, and she believes this is the best way to bring longevity to the skin. She doesn’t use retinol – a traditional anti-ageing ingredient – in her line as she believes skincare should heal rather than inflame the skin. Barbara’s brand is a reminder that going against the mainstream can shape the present (and the future) for the better. And right now, we feel very grateful for this.
Dr. Sturm, how should we change our skincare routine for winter?
Cold air can dry out your skin, so hydration is important. The Hyaluronic Serum is absolutely mandatory for hydration and for a strong skin barrier. Our Cleanser is also mandatory because it has the right pH levels to protect your skin barrier.
Ideally in winter you switch to the Face Cream Rich, or to the Super Anti-Ageing Face Cream, because these formulas contain nourishing lipids to give the skin barrier strength against the cold.
What does your morning and evening beauty routine look like?
I have to be very honest, when I’m busy my routine can be as quick as two steps, and I only use the Hyaluronic Serum and Face Cream. And then other mornings I leave our Everything Eye Patches on for half an hour, and then use the Good C Vitamin C Serum to bring active ingredients into my skin. Next it’s the Super Anti-Ageing Eye Serum and Super Anti-Ageing Eye Cream, and I finish with the Face Cream once the serum has absorbed.
In the evening I’m very strict with using the Night Serum and Super Anti-Ageing Night Cream. At night our skin barrier becomes more permeable, which means more substances can penetrate and soak into it. The night cream has an ingredient called polynucleic acid; it’s four times more hydrating than the hyaluronic serum and means you wake up with baby-butt-soft skin. Nothing is red, irritated or dry.
What does an anti-inflammatory lifestyle look like?
The most important things in life are that you sleep, you eat correctly, you move your body and you get light in. All of these things are part of an anti-inflammatory lifestyle. People are definitely more educated in living this lifestyle now; they’ve got the Oura Ring on [laughs] to live your best life. But sometimes, when it comes to our skin, people are not that careful – I’m talking about sun and pollution exposure, as well as using harsh retinols, face scrubs and acid peels.
I have had my brand for 20 years now, and in the beginning I got criticised for going against the norm; for saying acid peels and retinols are the worst approach to skincare, because these aggressive ingredients break or damage your skin barrier. But now there is understanding. Put simply, everything that hurts is a sign your body doesn’t want it – tingling, redness…If you destroy your skin, you bring the future closer. My skincare approach is to repair and heal.
What’s the one product you would save from a fire?
I would always go for the Face Cream, because I need to moisturise. And if there’s time, I’d take the Hyaluronic Serum, too. They are the best duo to take with you.
Tell us your best piece of beauty advice…
Sleep and hydrate. Also where possible I avoid makeup, because some of the ingredients in makeup aren’t the best for your skin. And gel nails, my 11-year-old is crying out for gel nails. But it’s not happening. Now she’s only asking for a second ear piercing… spoiler, it’s still no!
Tell us something we don’t know about you…
My house is full of vintage furniture, antiques and china tableware. I don’t like the mainstream and having what everybody else has. I like what people don’t have. And really that’s how the brand started; what I wanted wasn’t on the market, my skincare beliefs weren’t in the mainstream, and so I created it. You don’t have to accept what society gives you – if you think you know better, go for it.
What do you think the future of the beauty industry is?
Let’s see how many more celebrity brands will pop up… I started when there was no one. Perricone MD was the only doctor brand that existed before me. Customers don’t want to be tricked into buying a product because of the marketing, and I think education and awareness will continue to grow. That’s why it’s great to launch in John Lewis. I don’t preach, I just want us to have the education and make choices for ourselves. The more people who know about healing and repairing skincare the better. Spread the word!
