The science of good hair

Bad-hair days can be relegated to the dark ages thanks to some clever new innovations. From expanding polymers and follicle-filling molecules to ionic technology, haircare has got hi-tech and the result is the mane you’ve always wanted. 

With the help of nifty new technology, it’s now possible to thwart mother nature and achieve whatever texture or hue you desire. We’ve decoded the science so you can get on with looking like you’ve just stepped out of a salon. Move over smartphones, this is smart haircare. 

Translation: Silky smooth hair with less frizz

How it works: Found in ionic hairdryers such as the John Lewis & Partners Nano Air Petite Dryer, ionic technology makes the drying process faster. This means it’s gentler on your hair while eliminating static and frizz. The reason? It’s back to physics class for this one. Ions are molecules with an electrical charge that are present all around us, but it’s the positively charged ones that wreak havoc on our hair, causing static electricity and frizz. Ionic styling tools emit negative ions to neutralise them and the upshot is smoother locks. As water molecules generally favour negative charges, it also means that drying time is speeded up, too. 

Tip: Look for tourmaline in your styling tools. This semi-precious stone emits negative ions.

Translation: A happier scalp

How it works: You’ve probably heard about the benefits of probiotics in relation to gut health, but these magnanimous microorganisms are making their way into haircare, too. Otherwise known as good bacteria, their presence is said to inhibit bad bacteria from getting up to mischief. Try Ouai Scalp & Body Scrub, designed to help soothe itchy, flaky scalps. Sugar crystals gently slough off dead skin cells, coconut oil helps to nourish skin and hair, while the potent blend of probiotics work to prevent the damage caused by environmental aggressors. 

Tip: Double up on your defences by popping a probiotic supplement daily.

Translation: Vibrant hair colour for longer

How it works: Living Proof has come up with a way of ensuring your colour doesn’t fade as fast – it’s all down to a patented new molecule in its Color Care Shampoo and Conditioner. Cationic polyurethane encapsulated with linoleic acid (CPULA), or ‘locking molecule’ to you and me, relies on ionic interaction to help seal in hair dye. Carrying on from our lesson in ions, the locking molecule, which is positively charged, is attracted to the negative charge of the hair surface. This forms a barrier around the hair shaft to prevent water from entering and leaching out any colour. What’s more, it also nourishes the hair with Omega 6 to soften and smooth. The result is vibrant colour that lasts. 

Tip: After colouring, wait as long as possible to allow the dye to settle into the hair – around 72 hours is ideal.

Translation: Fewer split ends and less breakage

How it works: First things first, a crash course in biology: hair is mainly made up of a protein called keratin which is formed of a series of amino acids. These are bonded together in a coiled alpha helix structure which is held together by numerous molecular bonds. Chemical processing such as bleaching or chemical straightening damages these bonds, thus weakening the structure of the hair. Cue Bumble and bumble Glow Bond-Building Styler, which contains bond-building technology to penetrate deep down into the hair, helping to create new hydrogen bonds within the protein strand to strengthen hair from within over time. This multitasking hero also helps to add shine, tame frizz and provide heat protection.

Tip: Invest in a silk pillowcase to avoid roughing up the hair cuticles as you sleep, which can lead to breakage.

Translation: Faster drying with less damage

How it works: A feature of the much-lauded Dyson Supersonic Hair Dryer, air multiplier technology refers to an amplified air flow which occurs due to the curvature of the inner wall of the fan, creating an area of negative pressure to draw in more air. That’s 13 litres of air per second – three times more than a traditional hairdryer, according to Dyson. Or, to put it another way, silky-smooth tresses in a jiffy. This particular dryer also combines intelligent heat control, measuring temperature more than 40 times a second to prevent extreme heat damage, resulting in 75% smoother hair.

Tip: Wrap your hair in a microfibre towel while applying your body lotion and getting dressed, as this super-absorbent material will help cut drying time.

Translation: Weightless hydration where your hair needs it most

How it works: When it comes to smoothing and moisturising, traditional conditioners have relied on silicones to give them that signature ‘slip’. Silicones are synthetic compounds which have a bit of a bad rep for adding build-up by coating hair in a thin, waterproof layer. This can be great for thick, coarse, frizzy hair types who love silicone’s ability to detangle and smooth, but not so welcome for finer hair or those wanting natural ingredients.

This is why Aveda decided to go back to the lab to find a silicone alternative. The result is its Sap Moss™ Weightless Hydration Shampoo and Conditioner, which boast innovative conditioning technology dubbed smart ‘drone’ conditioning, where a plant-powered fusion of natural ingredients hydrate the hair without weighing it down. The key hydration heroes are Iceland moss, which can absorb twice its weight in water to survive winter droughts and is used to deliver targeted moisture, while the larch sap seals it in. And for that covetable after-feel of a traditional conditioner? Nourishing Kukui nut and coconut oils.

Tip: Apply conditioner starting at the mid-lengths and ends to avoid greasy roots.