THE NEW WAVE OF MENSWEAR IS ALL ABOUT CASUAL, EASY, SUSTAINABLE PIECES. MEET THE ECO-CONSCIOUS BRANDS CREATING OUR NEW EVERYDAY UNIFORM…
Over the past decade or so, there has been a noticeable shift in the way in which men are dressing. In the early Noughties, Don Draper and his army of sartorially blessed Mad Men dictated the taut tailoring that defined our wardrobes; now, fewer than 10% of British men still wear a suit to work. It’s a change that has, in part, been responsible for the burgeoning ‘athleisure’ trend of the past few years, and with it a move away from suiting towards tracksuits and trainers.
The reason? Pithy portmanteau aside, the athleisure trend is really a response to the changing nature of the global workplace. Following the financial crisis of 2008 and the insatiable rise of the gig economy, the past few years have proven that it’s no longer necessary for many men to wear tailoring during the working day. After all, what use do you have for a Savile Row suit if you’re running a million-pound internet business from your kitchen table?
The reality is, however (and take heed, Mark Zuckerberg et al), that even if as a society we’re leaning away from formality towards comfort, it’s still possible to look stylish, smart and respectable while wearing more casual garments. It’s a point that a number of new, independent menswear brands have started to capitalise upon – and they’re as focused on the impact of their production processes on society as a whole as they are on the cut of their jackets and trousers.
Take Far Afield, for instance. Founded by brothers Mark and Chris Scholes, the brand’s stylish basics in muted, summery hues are inspired by global travel, and as an organisation, it strives for ethical and sustainable business practices.
‘We work with a variety of factories in both Europe and Asia, where we regularly pay visits to ensure that our expectations of high standards are met,’ says Chris.
Founded in Sweden in 1891, the brilliantly minimal outerwear label Tretorn is keeping pace with sustainable innovations with the launch of its Eco Essentials initiative. The brand’s aim is that by 2020, 50% of its outerwear (think technical jackets in understated hues) will be made from recycled materials and be biodegradable. It will be no small effort.
Tretorn's marketing manager, Rachael Newbury, highlights the brand's pretty impressive eco credentials. 'We are inspired by nature’s circular ecosystem,’ she says. ‘We make our new rainwear fabric from plants such as sugar cane and tapioca.' The green version above, for example, is made from recycled nylon from discarded fishing nets and other nylon waste.
One of my favourite new homegrown brands in the eco-friendly-yet-style savvy category is Wax London. Founded by Rich Singh, Steffy Neceva and Tom Holmes, the label combines low-key Scandinavian styling with UK-based manufacturing processes.
‘Wax London’s focus doesn’t just lie in creating covetable everyday wear,’ Steffy told me, ‘but also in establishing ways of giving back to charities, producing inspiring content through our journal and creating job opportunities for skilled workers in the UK.’
And what of Wax’s key pieces? ‘We consider the Navarino mac our first true endeavour into what later became Wax London,’ says Steffy. ‘Manufactured in our hometown, London, it has now become the staple piece of the brand. Originally cut from a wax-coated cotton, it’s now cut in various fabrics from the UK and Italy.’
The good news, in short, is that it has never been easier to dress as comfortably, stylishly and – perhaps most importantly – conscientiously, than it is now. Your wardrobe (not to mention the planet) will thank you for it.
