How to wash and care for cashmere

Whether you’re buying your first cashmere piece or adding to your capsule wardrobe of chic, minimalist staples, check out John Lewis’ extensive range. The collection of refined, super-soft designs deserve a place in every wardrobe and, if you learn to look after them well, offer long-lasting elevated style. 

One of the draws of cashmere is its thermally insulating fibre, which helps to regulate temperature – in both hot and cold climates. It's fibres are finer than wool, and it's also super soft to the touch.

While wool is harvested from sheep, cashmere comes from goats living in a region stretching from northern China into Mongolia. The harsh, unforgiving winters in the high plateaus of this area are just right for the special type of goats from which our cashmere fibre is collected. The goats survive by growing an extra-fine coat underneath their weather-resistant guard hair – this is where the cashmere comes from.

Although it’s a very fine hair, when you twist multiple strands together they create a strong, resilient yarn. However, as a limited amount of hair can be collected per goat each year – approximately three to four ounces – several animals are needed to source enough cashmere for a single garment. 

As a result, cashmere is a highly sought-after, luxury textile, which is why it is more expensive than wool. For AW25, our own label pure cashmere range for women and men is exclusively made from top-grade fibres that are 100% certified by the Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA). 

 

Cashmere is measured in gauges – which means the number of stitches a garment has per inch. For example, a 12-gauge sweater is lighter and finer than a seven or five, which would create a chunkier finish.

The ply is the number of cashmere strands that are tightly twisted together to make a single piece of yarn. The higher the ply count, the thicker the yarn. 

If a piece is described as fully fashioned it means each panel is knitted to size (as opposed to being cut down and sewn together). This ensures a more flattering fit. The delicate stitch detail you can see around a shoulder or neck trim is known as a fashioning mark.

You’ve invested in a new piece of knitwear, worn it and now it's ready to go in the laundry. This is where you ask: should I hand-wash cashmere or is it safe to put in the washing machine? We recommend you check your garment’s care label and, before you do anything else, always begin by turning each piece inside out. As a general note, washing machines’ hand-wash setting can be gentler than traditional hand-washing.

• Hand-wash: Ensure that the sink is clean and grease-free, then dissolve specialist detergent into lukewarm water. Gently swirl your garment in the water for about 30 seconds. Let it soak for up to 30 minutes before rinsing with cold water. Gently squeeze the water through the fibres, then rinse with cool, clean water. Avoid wringing or stretching your garment.

• Machine washable: Select a 30-degree delicate cycle. Place your garment inside a mesh washing bag to protect against snagging. Always use non-biological detergents that are specially formulated for wool and silk. Steer clear of fabric conditioner to avoid your knitwear thinning or developing holes.

• Drying: Once washed, carefully reshape your item but avoid twisting or wringing. Instead, gently squeeze out excess water. Finally, lay your garment flat on a towel and allow to air dry. Cashmere should never be tumble-dried as the heat can damage the fibres.
  

To extend the life of your cashmere, only wash it when dirty and always follow the care instructions (as 100-per-cent cashmere pieces can shrink). A few other things to consider are…

Pilling. This is a natural characteristic of cashmere, not a sign of poor quality. John Lewis uses the longest, finest fibres and any pilling that may occur will form thinner bobbles, which are easy to remove by hand or with a cashmere comb. Lay the item flat, then comb in one direction over the affected area, using gentle strokes. Don’t do this too often or you risk thinning the garment.

Storage. To avoid creating rips, stretching or distorting the shape of your garment, avoid hanging it. Instead, carefully fold it flat.

Moths. Keep these hole-creating pests away by placing cedarwood balls in drawers containing cashmere. Sanding them gently a few times a year keeps their repellent scent potent. You can also use lavender sachets to deter moths. If you’re packing pieces away over summer, store them in a cool, dry place with anti-moth balls or sachets in breathable, sealed bags.

The new premium Miele Nova WQ 1000 washing machine has been extensively tested to deliver perfect care for your cashmere; it’s so gentle it can wash a rose and its petals stay on. Yes, really.

For the best results – for everything from socks and scarves to jumpers and cardigans – wash no more than three cashmere items per cycle, ideally in separate mesh bags, and using the Wool or Delicates setting. This will ensure your favourite knits stay fluffy, don’t shrink or develop pilling.