The joy of buying second-hand jewellery

One of the silver (no pun intended) linings of not being able to shop in store due to the pandemic is the abundance of second-hand jewellery now available to shop online. Until recently, these fine, one-of-a-kind treasures could only be found behind glass cabinets in physical stores. But now you can wishlist something, drop hints to your nearest and dearest via their inboxes or treat yourself to a special delivery of a very unique sort.

‘I think part of the appeal is value for money,’ explains Lizzie Hannaford, Partner & Jewellery Buyer, of this burgeoning corner of the jewellery market, where uniqueness is also undoubtedly the USP. (Note: second-hand jewellery differs from ‘vintage’, in that the latter might not have been worn and tends to lean towards non-precious ‘costume’ styles produced in larger quantities.) ‘There’s also the mystery factor: if a ring dates back to the 1900s, you wonder: it’s been through so much… who had it before me?’ adds Hannaford.

Currently enjoying the most demand is the tennis bracelet: a timeless, single-strand design studded with diamonds, and ‘everything bridal’, reveals Hannaford, so that’s eternity, engagement and wedding rings. With gemstones, sapphires and emeralds are the most popular, while gold is hot on the heels of silver when it comes to metals. ‘Dainty pieces, such as a classic necklace with a diamond pendant, sell really well,’ adds Hannaford. 

It isn’t unusual for pieces with four-figure price tags to be snapped up on a weekly basis. In fact, when I speak to one of John Lewis & Partners’ most prominent jewellery suppliers, Newcastle-based Mitch Preston of Milton & Humble, he shows me a diamond-and-sapphire cluster ring that’s being re-sized for its new owner, having sold in store for £4,500 the previous day.

Preston has been dealing in second-hand jewellery since the mid 1980s (his company name is a playful blend of his childhood nickname and his wife’s maiden name) and sources from a network of local and international dealers. A multi-coloured, showstopping ‘Flamme' ring by haute Parisian jeweller Waskoll (recently sold online, sorry) was hunted down on a trip to Las Vegas from a Los Angeles-based seller – ‘I imagined it belonging to a Hollywood star,’ he laughs.

Preston’s weak spot is for items made after the 1970s: ‘I like slightly garish designs from the 70s and the simpler, more classical styles that came after that,’ he says. What makes a piece of second-hand jewellery stand out from the rest? ‘Nice design, in a good condition, well made and not showing a lot of wear, as well as being unusual.’

Anyone doubting the authenticity of a pre-loved item found online can rest assured, as pieces selling for more than £2,000 are valued by the Assay Office, an independent body. It will also check for hallmark, the clarity of the stones and that any diamonds haven’t been swapped for lab-grown varieties. Once bought, jewellery is sent directly from the supplier, allowing a direct dialogue between the seller and customer. For example, if a ring needs re-sizing and you’d like it to be done before it’s sent, you can make that request (this service is included in the price).

Sounds too good to be true? The only down side is the threat of buyer’s remorse: because, when something is gone, it really is, alas, gone.