Acid test: 5 skincare acids you should know about

Acids are having a moment in skincare, and they’re not as scary as they sound. We’re constantly told of their myriad benefits, from a turbo-boost of hydration (thank you, hyaluronic acid) to giving your pores a good old spring clean (looking at you, salicylic acid).

But what if you don’t know your AHAs from your elbow? Incidentally, dry elbows benefit greatly from a little glycolic acid applied twice a day. Luckily, help is at hand, as we’ve created a definitive guide to the acids to know about.

‘It’s been proven in scientific studies that acids can increase collagen production and have various other benefits in addition to exfoliation,’ says Dr Stefanie Williams, Medical Director at dermatology clinic Eudelo. ‘Unlike chemical and mechanical exfoliants that repeatedly remove the top layers of the skin, acids work on all layers, from stimulating cell repair in the epidermis for brighter skin to reversing sun damage and improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in the dermis.’ Here are five key acids that could transform your skin.

Don’t let the name deceive you – while it might sound scary, hyaluronic acid is one of the most benevolent skincare ingredients you can use. Unlike the other acids in our skin-improving posse, it adds hydration rather than exfoliates. In fact, this heroic moisture magnet, found naturally in our skin, can hold up to a thousand times its own weight in water molecules.

Benefits: it works well for every skin type and boosts skin’s moisture content.

Try: Rodial Dragon’s Blood Hyaluronic Acid Mask, £45

Lactobionic acid works exclusively on the surface of the skin and has a smoothing, resurfacing effect. ‘This unique compound is derived from milk sugar and is extremely hydrating,’ says Dr Stefanie. ‘It is a strong antioxidant and has been shown to provide significant benefits to the appearance and feel of photoaged skin.’

Benefits: lactobionic acid increases cell turnover, normalises pigmentation and helps promote collagen and elastin.  

Try: Omorovicza Refining Facial Polisher, £60

‘Glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane,’ says Pamela Marshall, clinical aesthetician and co-founder of Mortar & Milk. ‘It can be an excellent clinical treatment for pigmentation, acne, building collagen and working on scarring, because it can penetrate deeply. However, it’s not recommended for sensitive skin and if you’re using an at-home version, do it once or twice a week maximum and always wear sunscreen,’ she adds. 

Benefits: it exfoliates, makes your other products absorb better, helps to reverse sun damage and stimulates cell repair.

Try: Skin Laundry Brightening Serum With Glycolic Acid, £46

Salicylic acid is popular for problem skin. ‘This acid works by sloughing off dead skin cells and unblocking pores,’ explains Nataliya Robinson, holistic facialist and founder of Quantum Botanika. ‘In addition, it controls sebum production and increases cell turnover, but it tends to be too potent for sensitive skin.’

Benefits: great at spot fighting and minimising pores.

Try: Origins Super Spot Remover Blemish Treatment Gel, £16

‘This acid is pretty powerful,’ says Pamela. ‘It forces cell turnover and works on pigmentation just like glycolic acid, but is slightly less irritating. As with most other acids, you should always use sunscreen.’

Benefits: it’s milder than glycolic acid, works on hyperpigmentation and improves skin tone. 

Try: Murad Extractor Pomegranate Mask, £30

Image: Getty Images